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unaza online His and hers: gender fluid jewels for a new decade

Upplagd av Kingjy

The concept of gender-free jewellery is not new, men 2020 has seen a subtle shift from trend to something more permanent. Attitudes towards gender are changing, and this new era of acceptance and inclusivity is having a noticeable effect on the world of jewellery design. By removing the concept of gender entirely in the creative process, a whole new category of jewels has sprung up that mirrors the increasingly fluid world around us.

Leane founded his eponymous brand in 1999 after designing jewels for the late, great fashion designer Alexander McQueen, whose early catwalk shows were a mix of men’s and womenswear. Subconsciously, they guided Leane’s aesthetic. “When I started designing my collection, it wasn’t for men or women, they were very unisex and they still are,” he explains. “I do a lot of bespoke, in particular diamond jewellery for men.”

The wind of change is even being felt in Paris, the historic heart of jewellery making in France. Founded more than 400 years ago, family-run high jewellery house has been a favourite with European royalty for generations. Best known for its naturalistic designs, the house has had strong ties with fashion designers, Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain included, since the 1950s. I 2015, it decided to revive these connections by inviting couturier Alexandre Vauthier to join its “Chambre de la Haute Couture”.

Vauthier immediately raided the Mellerio archives for inspiration, returning with a design from the 1960s – the catalyst for the Graphic collection. A graphic, new direction for the house, Vauthier envisaged the angular, architectural jewels to be unisex, an inspired move that attracted a brand-new clientele: men.

With Generation Z – those post millennials who have grown up with gender fluidity being the norm – all set to be the next big spenders in luxury, and the lines between menswear and womenswear becoming increasingly blurred, the face of fashion is changing. Gender-bending jewellery, it seems, is here to stay.

 

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