Процесс 14 -каратного ювелирного производства Vermeil

Что такое 14 тыс. Вермейл?

Первый, Крайне важно понять определение, as it’s a legally regulated term in many countries (like the US and UK). 14k Vermeil (pronounced “ver-may”) is not the same as gold-plated jewelry. Its specific requirements are:

• Базовый металл: Must be серебро 925 пробы (92.5% чистое серебро).

• Gold Purity: The gold layer must be at least 10k fineness, but it is most commonly and luxuriously 14k или 18k.

• Толщина: The gold layer must be at least 2.5 Микроны thick. High-quality vermeil is often 3-5 Микроны.

This combination makes vermeil a more affordable alternative to solid gold while offering better durability, value, and hypoallergenic properties (from the sterling silver core) than standard gold plating.

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The Production Process Step-by-Step

Шаг 1: Design and Prototyping

• Concept & Атмосфера: Designers create sketches or use Computer-Aided Design (Атмосфера) software to create a detailed 3D model of the jewelry piece.

• Prototype (Sample): A prototype is created, often using a 3D printer. This model is then used to create a master mold for casting or is cast directly in sterling silver to perfect the design before full-scale production.

Шаг 2: Creating the Sterling Silver Base

This is the core of the piece. The main methods are:

• Кастинг (Most Common): The design is cast using the lost-wax casting method.

  1. A rubber mold is made from the prototype.

  2. Wax is injected into the mold to create wax copies of the design.

  3. These wax models are attached to a “wax tree.”

  4. The tree is placed in a flask and surrounded by a plaster-like investment material.

  5. The flask is heated, hardening the investment and melting the wax away, leaving a perfect hollow cavity of the jewelry pieces.

  6. Molten sterling silver is centrifugally forced into the flask, filling the cavities.

  7. После охлаждения, the investment is broken away, and the individual silver pieces (called “castings”) are cut from the tree.

• Fabrication: For simpler shapes, sheets or wires of sterling silver can be cut, soldered, and formed by hand.

Шаг 3: Pre-Polishing and Preparation

The raw silver castings are rough and unfinished. This stage is critical for a smooth final product.

• Падающий: Pieces are placed in a tumbling machine with abrasive media and water to smooth out surface imperfections and edges.

• Filing & Sanding: Artisans manually file off any leftover metal sprues (from the casting tree) and sand the pieces to a smooth finish.

• Полировка: The pieces are polished on motorized wheels with various polishing compounds (НАПРИМЕР., Триполи для резки, Руж для высокого блеска) to achieve a mirror-like finish on the sterling silver. A perfectly polished base is essential for a flawless vermeil finish.

Шаг 4: Ultrasonic Cleaning

• The polished silver pieces must be utterly free of oil, dust, and polishing compounds. They are placed in an ultrasonic cleaner with a special chemical solution that uses high-frequency sound waves to agitate and remove the tiniest particles. Any residue will prevent the gold from bonding evenly.

Шаг 5: The Vermeil Process (Electroplating)

This is the technical heart of the process where the silver becomes vermeil.

• Rinsing: The cleaned pieces are rinsed in distilled water.

• Electrocleaning: Pieces are submerged in an electrocleaning solution and given a reverse current to remove any final, microscopic contaminants.

• Striking (Необязательный): Some platers use a very thin “strike” layer (often of nickel or a specific gold solution) to ensure perfect adhesion of the gold. Note: The use of a nickel barrier is controversial as it can cause allergic reactions, and many high-end vermeil producers skip this step, plating directly onto the silver.

• The Gold Bath (Electrolyte): The pieces are immersed in a tank containing a solution of water, electrolytes, и 14k gold ions.

• Applying Current: The sterling silver pieces are attached to a negative charge (cathode). A solid 14k gold bar (the anode) is also placed in the tank and given a positive charge.

• Покрытие: An electric current is passed through the solution, causing the gold ions to dissolve from the anode and bond evenly to the negatively charged silver surface. The longer the pieces remain in the bath, the thicker the gold layer becomes. Процесс тщательно приурочен для достижения желаемого 2.5+ Толщина микрона.

Шаг 6: Постлушение отделки

• Rinsing & Сушка: Недавно покрытые кусочки тщательно промывают в дистиллированной воде, чтобы остановить химический процесс, а затем тщательно высушенные.

• Окончательная полировка (Необязательный): Очень мягкий лак с мягким колесом может использоваться для улучшения блеска без удаления значительного количества золота. Это часто делается для произведений без камней.

• Чистка (Необязательный): Для матовой или атласной отделки, кусочки можно чистить тонким абразивным колесом.

Шаг 7: Установка камней (Если применимо)

• Если дизайн включает в себя драгоценные камни (НАПРИМЕР., бриллианты, сапфиры, Сумка), Они установлены после процесс покрытия. Установка камней после покрытия не позволяет им подвергаться воздействию суровых химических веществ в ванне., который может повредить им. Это также гарантирует, что зубцы выселивают, Сделать настройку плавно сочетать с кусочком.

Шаг 8: Строгий контроль качества

• Thickness Testing: A specialized device like an X-ray Fluorescence (Xrf) spectrometer is used to verify the gold thickness and purity non-destructively.

• Visual Inspection: Every piece is meticulously inspected under magnification for any plating flaws, such as bleaching (uneven color), царапины, or poor stone setting.

• Hallmarking: Reputable manufacturers will laser-engrave or stamp the piece with quality marks, such as “925” (denoting sterling silver) and often “14k Vermeil” или “14k GE” (for Gold Electroplate).

Шаг 9: Упаковка

The finished jewelry is packaged in anti-tarnish bags or boxes to protect it from scratches and air exposure before it reaches the customer.

Summary of Key Differentiators from Gold Plating: