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blue stripes & stones slider bracelet Whisper softly to me: grey jewels are on the rise

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Grey is not the first colour that comes to mind for jewellery. But this quiet shade is gaining popularity with designers seeking more subdued hues as they venture beyond the bright lights of colour gemstones and the perennial appeal of the sparkle of diamonds. The most grown-up and philosophical of colours, grey offers an alternative in tune with our times where contemplation and meditation are ever more highly appreciate. I talk to those designers that are tapping into these quiet qualities.

Sensitive to the lightest of shifts in mood, Vincenzo Castaldo, Creative Director of the Milanese house, chose obsidian set in grey titanium flanked by black diamonds for a recent version of the house’s iconic Nudo jewels (πάνω από). ‘This is a nocturnal and mysterious interpretation of Nudo that evokes an intimate and introspective dimension,’ explains Castaldo. ‘Nudo has always talked to our emotions with its precious gemstone colour palette, but the grey version of Nudo whispers to our inner world… grey is a colour that is perfect in the Milanese metropolitan atmosphere, evoking the nuances of flannel and reminding us of an androgynous taste, let’s say less romantic and more intellectual or meditative.’ The symbolism of obsidian is also intriguing and Castaldo reminds us that ‘obisidian is a naturally occurring volcanic glass thought to offer protection against negativity and encourage the surfacing of secrets and hidden emotions.’

Arts studios and sees another side to the colour. She finds the joyous side of this tone and the Galactica collection (main image) takes us on ‘an intergalactic flight through colliding asteroids, comets tails and neon dust.’ It’s hardly surprising that Cullen is so excited by grey. Μετά 17 years of working exclusively with Whitby Jet, the black fossilised wood that had its heyday as the material of choice for dour Victorian mourning jewellery, grey is whole new world. ‘I had a sample of grey agate and knew I’d found my material as there is an incredible translucent, ethereal and sensual quality to it – a beautiful ombre and subtle banding,’ enthuses Cullen. ‘It is timeless and not subject to fads or trends.’ With her characteristic obsession with details, Cullen sets champagne and blue diamonds directly in the agate.

 

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